Let it rain on Mount Street

We all grumble about the wet weather but rarely do anything about it aside from getting all wet and bothered. Thankfully, in 1823, Charles Macintosh developed the process of spreading rubber onto cotton to create the worldʼs first formal waterproof fabric, signaling the arrival of the original Mackintosh coat. Since then it has dedicated itself to keep the world stylishly dry. Today, Mackintosh is a firmly established brand with an almost cult status, especially in the Japanese market. Recognised for its unique hand made authenticity, the great British label produce outerwear for a diverse range of clients in Paris, Milan and Tokyo; including high profile luxury brands such as Louis Vuitton, Hermes, Gucci, Dior, YSL and fashion designers Erdem, Junya Watanabe and Nigel Cabourn to name but a meaty mouthful.  

Thankfully, the brand resisted temptation from Japan and has opted to open its maiden store in the aptly, drizzly British capital.  The fabulously located Mount Street store officially opens its doors this evening but I was extremely fortunate to have Daniel Dunko, UK managing director of Mackintosh Ltd, as my store guide and brand enlightener earlier this afternoon.

I could not have had a better guide to talk me through the beautiful two story space than Mackintosh's very own Daniel Dunko. As he talked me through the latest designs, I was amazed to learn that he began his working life with Mackintosh as an apprentice on the factory floor back in 1983 and has since worked his way up to the position he hold now. He has worked for Mackintosh for twenty eight years come May. Following the three year apprenticeship he then served on the Cumbernauld floor for two years before embarking on a sales and marketing position at the company, then a directorship in 1996 and he never looked back. It was an absolute pleasure to hear about Dunko's experiences right from the craftsmanship of the factory floor to buyouts and investments. Unsurprisingly, he was hugely excited by the latest development in his brand's rich history. It was contagious.  

104 Mount Street is Mackintosh's flagship store. Prior to that they have enjoyed a strong concession presence, particularly in Japan and the rest of Asia but the brand began to put the plans together for their own space two years ago. Thankfully they only had their sights on London. Previously, the only retail presence they had in the capital was a shared store with Globetrotter located in Burlington Arcade which was forced to close following changes of ownership. Soon after they decided that they needed their own flagship store and, as they are a relatively niche brand, Mayfair and Mount Street were the perfect fit.

World famous interior designers and architects Wonderwall created the two floor, 90sqm state-of-the-art store and key features include an interior in tune with the modern Mackintosh brand and is truly inspired by its British craftsmanship. The design sought to showcase the brand's rich history, fruitful archives and latest ranges in a welcoming consumer friendly environment. For me, the design highlight has to be the three display cases showing iconic pieces from the Mackintosh's history. Since its inception, the brand has always been at the forefront of outerwear design and these display cases are a welcome reminded. From the Army coat from the 1930s which was a very heavy, rubberised bonded twill, to the a Dispatch Riders coat worn in the second World War to help deliver on deliver messages to the troops via motorcycles on the front line, on to to the British Rail days and outfitting rail staff in the 70s.

Mackintosh is undoubtedly a brand of modern heritage built on true craftsmanship and a two hundred year history. If you were in any doubt, the Mount Street store gently reminds you at every turn, from  the encased vintage pieces to the feel of their latest garments which hang invitingly on hooks and rails. Every genuine Mackintosh garment is carefully hand made by skilled craftsmen who serve a three-year apprenticeship to perfect the techniques required to make a true mackintosh. With its factory in Cumbernauld, Scotland focused on hand made outerwear, Mackintosh also owns a second factory in Nelson, England producing the machine made side of its collections. The brand have sixty people in the Lancashire factory and about sixty seven in the factory in Scotland. Production wise it is similarly equally split. The Scottish factory creates all of he handmade pieces, and the factory in England concentrates on the machine work with cashmeres, wools, gabardines. I was amazed to learn that the label produce around thirty five thousand garments apiece at these pillars of British manufacturing.

In terms of design, the brand's archive pieces are hugely important and the teams in both Glasgow and Japan continue to rework, renew and reinvigorate items of yesteryear for the future generation of Mackintosh wearers. The archive is approximately five hundred pieces strong, many of which are the results of collaborations, from catwalk piece for Louis Vuitton to Balenciaga, Comme des Garcons to Yohji Yamaoto and shortly the fruits of the design partnership with Kitsune. Having had my interest in the latest collaboration piqued after the Voyageur collection received a fair amount of blog coverage in the run up Christmas, this was the first opportunity I had to see it in the cloth and I was not left disappointed.  This is a happy marriage of two like minded brands, one from a manufacturing background and one from a design perspective combining to create truly covetable outerwear. Fittingly, I was particularly taken with the London. Stunning.

The unveiling of this impressive store, coupled with the brand’s British heritage and modern cuts, truly confirms the resurgence of the brand. Mackintosh will never forget that the rubberised coat was one of the most creative and revolutionary innovations that changed the lives of so many during that era.  However, most interestingly the brand keeps evolving and offering timeless contemporay collections. Mackintosh is the original British rainwear brand, long may it continue. Let it rain.

(Pleased with myself as I managed to make it through to the end of the post without bursting in to Mark Morrisons' classic)

b Store loves Liberty

Both of us at Style Salvage have a soft spot for this particular homely department store and the fabric it is famous for. In 1875 Sir Arthur Lasenby Liberty opened his first shop on Regent Street with merely three employees, where he sold ornaments, fabrics, antiques and artifacts from Japan and the Far East. The store became the most fashionable place to shop in London and iconic Liberty fabrics were used for both clothing and furnishings. Its clientele was exotic and included famous members of the Pre-Raphaelite movement. Proust bought his ties there and Gilbert and Sullivan dressed their casts in its fabrics. Liberty soon become famous for its prints and textiles and by the 20th century Liberty fabrics were used by great designers like Paul Poiret, Yves Saint Laurent, Cacharel, Jean Muir and Paul Smith to name but a few.

Designers have always been inspired by Liberty's ever growing archive of prints. Last year alone, the venerable department store launched a number of interesting collaborations, from affordable florals at Target to shoes by Repetto, Nike Dunks adorned with florals and luggage by Merci. With an archive that is one hundred and thirty five years old, there is plenty to excite and inspire. The latest to be inspired is b store. In an exciting collaboration, the design and textile forces behind two of our favourite stores have combined to create a truly covetable capsule collection that celebrates some of the finest prints on offer, including the much loved pepper print. Having recently breathed fresh life in to heritage label, Baracuta in a range of Harringtons and trousers, now b store have reimagined the use of florals in menswear. Here, while showcasing the Jason Hughes styled and Laurence Ellis shot look book, we talk to b store's very own Matthew Murphy to learn about his love of Liberty, discuss the retail landscape in the capital and find out how the Savile Row store will blow out ten candles in a series of events throughout the year...

SS: How did this collaboration with Liberty arise and how did it evolve in to the collection we see today?

Matthew Murphy: The project stemmed from our relationship with Stephen Ayres, Liberty's Menswear Buying Director. We have known Stephen since he worked at Selfridges and when he moved to Liberty he asked us whether we could work together on a project. As the store is in close vicinity with ours and with us working with Selfrigdes and our projects with Dover Street Market, central London is pretty covered in terms of stockists but we still wanted to create something together. We have always loved the heritage of Liberty fabrics and we can up with the idea of working on a capsule collection using these great fabrics. b store loves Liberty. It is not really a collaboration as such because of course, anyone can buy the fabrics wholesale but we wanted a special celebration of these great fabrics. We put the collection together and showed Stephen and he loved it. Initially, Liberty were going to stock it exclusively alongside us, but to get it manufactured we decided to do a bit more and the reaction internationally has been phenomenal. A number of stores that we have been working tentatively with were extremely positive. This season, with the collaborations with both Baracuta and Liberty, it feels decidedly British and the buying reaction has been great.

SS: Were the two collaborations strategically planned together or did they fall in to place?

Matthew Murphy: Ever since we started, the international opinion of b store has always been that we are a very London brand and people have always talked about it being very British. So, we planned that if we were going to collaborate we would work with British brands or brands that could really add something. Baracuta was a great one because we always found outerwear and casual jackets a difficult thing for us, we do shirts and trousers extremely well but tented to struggle with jackets. The stuff that they did with Watanabe and Margaret Howell was quite relevant to what we wanted to do so that came first. Then the Liberty opportunity arose and then everything just fell in to place. For future collaborations, we will continue down this route, find people will add to the complete look of the brand. We don't necessarily want to become a lifestyle as such but the aim is to offer a complete look. We obviously already do shoes and more recently accessories with Kuni (Awai), but it would be good to work on areas that we are not so prolific in and collaborate with specialists not so much in a craft way but, working with people on their signature items. I quite like the idea of working with brands that have become old, stuffy or slightly naff and tweaking them for the modern market.

SS: The archive of Liberty prints must be huge. What was starting point?

Matthew Murphy: We wanted a floral first and foremost because we were feeling that for the collection anyway which is why this always felt like a natural collaboration as they are known for their floral prints. Originally, we wanted to use some of the archive and heritage prints but it just wasn't possible in this instance. The archive prints are almost under lock and key, there are licensing agreements and cost issues so it is lengthy process. For the purposes of this happen, we wanted to make it as simple as possible but still used some amazing prints. It was the late sixties and early seventies prints that really inspired us. For example, the pepper print was designed in 1974/5 so there is still some history to them.

SS: This was a particularly iconic era for floral prints...

Matthew Murphy: Completely. Back then, what is great about them is that there is an obvious femininity there but when you put it in a shirt they feel masculine. There is such a soft feel to Liberty. As a store, it has always been my favourite department store in London. It was almost an introduction to menswear, back when I could first afford to designer clothes the menswear floor at Liberty was phenomenal. Back then they had a impressive Margaret Howell corner, a Westwood area, they had Dries (Van Noten), they were the first store to have Margiela. Fast forward to today and they have found a great niche. I think Stephen has a clear vision of what he wants the current menswear floor to be and it fits with our brand.

SS: You've had the pleasure of working alongside some of the great retail institutions of the capital...

Matthew Murphy: London is still one of the best shopping cities in the world. There might be more interesting things going on in other cities but if you want a selection then London is still the city. I'm all for teaming up and we've been fortunate to work with some great stores for example with Shop at Bluebird, with Selfridges, Dover Street Market and now Liberty. Each of the stores have strong identities and we've worked with all of them in different ways. It is amazing to think that our brand can do that, maybe the appeal is that it can fit so many different demographics and consumers. Originally, we thought that the work with Liberty would be a one off but after the success of it we began to think about working with the fabric in new ways and there is just so much creative opportunity. It can be subtle, as well as bold. For example, for SS12 we are already looking in to overdying fabrics. Then there are some bold geometric patterns from the 70s that remind me of early 90s Prada and that feels right at the moment as well. It is a great opportunity .

SS: What can you tell us about the planned launch?

Matthew Murphy: We are going to have a corner in Liberty's, put up the images and cover the walls in the pepper print. We are also going to open a pop up store in Printemps in Paris in May. Through doing this project, it has opened up opportunities. There are a million collaborations out there but if they are relevant then they work.

SS: I understand that 2011 is a big year for b store...

Matthew Murphy: It certainly is. We are ten in August and we have so many projects planned for the year to celebrate. Everything that we've planned is going under the umbrella of celebrating the store with different people, so Liberty, a roadshow with Selfridges which is pop up shop that begins in Manchester and goes to Birmingham before ending up in London, Printemps and we are working with Mr Porter online. We are also going to launch ten British products. We've approached ten British brands in categories that we are not currently involved in and these include lifestyle and fashion brands, some well known and a few which are less so. Actually there is one brand that I know you'll love, a new tie brand called Marwood. One of the key things that she does is using British lace on top of either silks or cottons to create ties and bow ties. It is beautiful. We are working with her for Spring/Summer in store but she is also going to be one of the ten. These types of projects are great because as well as keeping us creatively inspired, they are a great platform for discovering new brands and pushing them forward.

SS: In a sense, it is fitting celebration and it mirrors the core values of the b store ethos…

Matthew Murphy: Completely. It might be a bit less relevant or for difficult for us now in terms of menswear because our customers want a bit more consistency. For example, we have worked with Peter Jensen since the very beginning and we have customers who come to buy his designs, same with Stephan (Schneider) and now with Christophe (Lemaire). It is hard for us to introduce new menswear brands because there is no one we could nor would want to drop. Unfortunately we are governed by space and the fact that seventy per cent of our menswear is our own brand. This high percentage is not down to us pushing it but is down to the demand. So what we buy from these other bands is items that we wouldn't do necessarily ourselves by still feel very us, the understated luxury of Christophe or the geekyness of Peter. With these boxes filled it is difficult to bring on new labels. With regard to womenswear we have more freedom. This is why the Ten Products project is great because it allows us to bring in new names for product lines that we do not already sell.

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As the chaps celebrate their tenth anniversary in a style, you can expect to hear a lot more about b Store on the pages of this blog and beyond in the coming months. In the meantime, lets long for some sunshine and daydream about floral prints before the fruits of this collaboration hit stores next week.  

A Visit To LN-CC

There have been excited whispers and murmured opinions about the launch of a store in deepest, darkest Dalston for months now. Even before the unveiling of its online platform in August the industry's collective heart was all a flutter and this only intensified as details about the physical venture were circulated. Fashion month was rife with chitter and chatter around a certain odd mouthful in Late Night Chameleon Cafe. The John Skelton factor. The little point of a six thousand square foot space on Shacklewell Lane. Set designer Gary Card being tasked to create a next level retail space. An impressive roster of design talent.  The appetite was whet and expectation sky rocketed. Last Thursday was opening night and before the space was filled with wowed fashion folk, future consumers and appreciative onlookers alike, I was afforded the opportunity to explore the impressive innards of LN-CC. I did not leave disappointed.    

Within their six thousand square foot, former boxing gym space, the talented team have created a mind blowing retail space. A visit to this concept store entails, a forest, an octagon wooden tunnel which runs throughout the store, a concrete room, a bespoke wooden library, with items selected by Conor Dolan, a record store, three huge product rooms with different themes and a soundproof music room. This is a new form of retail for the capital. It is, without doubt a destination.

The skeletal tunnel runs throughout this new retail haven.

The imaginative space consists of numerous and entirely different yet complimentary concepts rooms that lead the visitor through all our various moods and influences which make up the store. In these areas the biggest of the best international designers are offered, alongside a selection of the most exciting new fashion talents around the world. For AW10, mainline brands such as Damir Doma and Rick Owens sit alongside Japanese labels Wacko Maria, Sasquatch and Unused which in turn hang close to London based brands J.W Anderson and New Power Studio - both of whom have transferred their menswear collections into women's sizes exclusively for this store. Take my hand as I lead you through each designer space...

The Earth space. Raf Simons Archive sits alongside a selection of covetable designers...

A alternate viewpoint of the Raf Simons archive.

A closer look at the J.W Anderson offering from his ‘The Saint and the Assassin’ collection. .

Raf Simons for Eastpack backpacks hang in the foreground while Margiela trainers lurk in the background.

The Light space is home to Nigel Cabourn, Christopher Raeburn, Hobo, SAQUATCHfabrix, PAM and so much more.

I thought that these were Native boots but they are are actually a preview of a new addition to the SS11 ranks 

A new discovery for me...the SASQUATCHfabrix Eototo rail.

Stunning outerwear by Christopher Raeburn. Ethically intelligent and proudly remade in England

Mouth watering and wallet bashing items from Nigel Cabourn's much talked about AW10 collection. I had to pry my wanting hands from the the longed for Everest Parka and Harris Tweed Mallary jackets. 

The Everest Parka is one of Nigel Cabourn's most famous and sought after pieces and is an exact reproduction of the coat worn by Edward Hillary during his ascent of Everest. As part of his personal collection, Cabourn has reproduced the original Everest Parka without any compromise to the production, quality or functionality.

The Warmth space was my favourite room. Creations by Rick Owens and Damir Doma are enclosed by a room of concrete. There is something quite comforting in being surrounded by a combination of expensive creations and carefully crafted cement.

Damir Doma’s Corbel asymmetric coat from A/W 10 collection in grey and black sits behind a Rick Owens look.

The salt and pepper coloured wool coat with the black graphic pattern looked particularly enticing surrounded by concrete.

Similarly, Damir Doma men's virgin wool knit with a multi grey pattern, unfinished seams, long sleeves and a crew neckline looks perfectly at home in this room.

I loved how this pattern faded in with the walls.

Are you impressed? Are you eager to explore the space for yourself? Then why not make an appointment to visit the store. However, if your next visit to the capital is just a faraway dream, do not despair. The LN-CC concept is not just focused around this impressive store. It is more an overall feeling and lifestyle which will thankfully be spread over a number of different platforms. It will permeate their product, e-commerce, parties, exhibitions and installations and will no doubt be enjoyed by many.

Advent - Day Sixteen

At this time of year there is one department store that draws me in with its festive interior and myriad of gift options inside, Liberty. However, outside of the usual gifting season there is plenty of reason for me to venture down to the basement. The menswear floor at London’s most cherished store is widely considered to be small but perfectly formed. Menswear buyer Stephen Ayres regularly introduces new labels whilst keeping old favourites to help create a dream walk in wardrobe. Here we find out what's on his Christmas list... 

__________

VINTAGE ROLEX OYSTER DATE WATCH FROM 1981


"My Christmas would be complete if I woke up to a Vintage Rolex Oyster date adjust watch from 1981 the year I was born. I think every man should have a proper watch and as I approach 30 only a Rolex will do."

__________

Seventy Eight Per Cent

Back in March I unearthed a gem of a retail space in the Wanchai area of Hong Kong. Kapok showcased products by younger labels, those whose work has not previously been available in this bustling, shopping obsessed city. The stock presented a well curated selection of European and Asian brands. It was great to find a store which had such an obvious desire to showcase products that see a happy marriage between craft and design. It included a mouth watering array of old favourite labels but also introduced me to a few new ones. Local accessories label Seventy Eight Percent was certainly the latter.

Seventy Eight Percent's passion for bags was clear and contagious the moment my eyes fell on their much loved Back to School collection. Here, the label managed to meld the functionality and performance of outdoor equipment with the craftsmanship of couture and the edginess of urban street-style. The bags are engineered to fulfill people’s practical needs and are built to last. Unsurprisingly, I wasn't the only one impressed and the label has since been featured in Milk, Monocle and most recently Wallpaper. With the recent launch of a new collection, Harrison Fold and a plethora of new products, we caught up with the man behind the label, Shai Levy to discuss the evolution of the brand and to take a closer look at the latest designs...

A close look at the leather notepad.

SS: What were your inspirations, dreams and the driving catalyst for launching in to the world of accessories?
Shai Levy: I have always loved bags. I love travelling and being mobile and I think that bags are intertwined with these experiences. My launch into the world of accessories was therefore driven by my love of the product and the fact that I could not find bags that I really liked.
Running my own brand was not a calculated decision; rather, it was an emotional one. I had to do it, to create something from scratch and take it as far as possible. Had I thought about it too much I would probably still be working for someone else, I am glad I didn't.

Among the people who inspired me to go out there and start my own gig are Sir Paul Smith and Sir Richard Branson. Both are highly creative spirits who built successful brands that are different and cheerful. They also managed to do so while keeping a healthy family life. Being a father of four, I find that very inspiring.

Dreams? Many. If there is one dream that sums it all up, it has have my grandchildren run around the sample room playing with pieces of leather.

An aged Fritz Card Holder

SS: What does Seventy Eight Percent mean to you? What can you tell us about the story behind the name? How has the design philosophy of Elad Klein influenced your brand?
Shai Levy: 78% is a conceptual design manifest created by Elad Klein, an artist, designer, musician and an uncommon creative spirit who was a very good friend and creative partner who died in a kayak accident in Hong Kong. In short, the manifest calls for designers to embed intentional flaws in their designs, thus creating products that are less than 100% functional. The idea is to force the user to develop new ways in using daily objects and adjust his behaviour to compensate for the product's flaw. Elad figured out that 78% is just the right amount to flaw an object. More than that would not create the desired impact and less than that would result in a useless product.

Naming the brand Seventy Eight Percent and using the whimsical logo, which Elad designed, gives me a constant reminder of Elad’s restless creativity and joyful, energetic spirit. More than the philosophy of the Seventy Eight Percent manifest, it is Elad’s spirit that influences my brand and creative path.

Two Fritz Card Holders side by side, one aged and one new.

SS: How would you describe your style and your own design philosophy?
Shai Levy: My design philosophy is very simple: Things should work, last and be desired. They should connect with us, users, in an emotional manner. They must be innovative. I see no point in doing the same old. I do not design towards a target price but a target value. That's about it.
It is a bit harder for me to define my style, as it is rather intuitive. I stay away from trends but to create timeless products. It is very much about proportions too. Function aside, good proportion is the most important aspect of any object. I will never compromise on that. I also like to celebrate with diverse colors, as they set the tone of the products, like soundtracks do for movies. I am lucky to be married to a woman with great understanding of style. She is a great advisor and a tough critic.

The srecently launched Small Leather Goods collection

SS: I recently read that you spent two years sourcing the right materials, could you tell us about this search and how you arrived at the perfect combination of vegetable tanned Italian leather and Egyptian cotton canvas dyed and woven in Japan?
Shai Levy: You should not take everything you read for granted. I was a bit misunderstood on that point. It took me two years to develop the first collection; finding the right materials was only one part of it. The quest for the right materials started very methodically, then eventually, luck kicked in. I had a very clear vision of the bags from the get go and knew exactly how I wanted them to look, feel and age. I knew that to achieve that look and feel I had to combine cotton canvas and vegetable-tanned leather and that the materials must be extraordinary.
With the leather it was somewhat simple. It had to be Italian. No one else does vegetable-tanned leather as well as they do. I searched for quite awhile until eventually, in a trade show, I found what I was looking for. There were these skins that were like nothing I have seen before. The natural feel, the smell and the vivid colours were amazing. They had beautiful natural marks. It happened to be that they were made by one of the top vegetable leather tanneries in Italy. One box was ticked.

The canvas took a bit longer. I checked canvases from many quality suppliers but their canvases, albeit very nice, lacked the X-factor. I was than introduced to a Japanese bag designer called Mr. Sato. He showed me his beautiful bags, made of leather and canvas that looked and felt like no other cotton canvas. Hearing the story behind the manufacturing of that canvas it made me want it even more. I hesitatingly asked Mr. Sato to introduce me to the canvas manufacturer and to my surprise he agreed. It was very kind of him. He really liked what I was doing and realised that although we are both bag makers, my style is very different to his.

Made from Japanese canvas and Italian leather.

SS: What were the first and last item you remember designing?
Shai Levy: I was designing and building things since I was a kid. I am not really sure what was the first item. The first Seventy Eight Percent item I designed was never produced. It kept evolving on the drawing board for quite a long time and ended up as Dimitri, the first Seventy Eight Percent bag.

It is hard to decide what is the last item. Ideas keep on flowing and we are working on so many product at the same time. There is one that we are about to launch. It is a wallet made of 100% leather and it is very unique. Very functional and like no other wallet that I know of. We named it Vax.

The Gustav messenger from the new Harrison Fold collection

SS: As all of your designs are expertly handmade, craft and local manufacture are obviously very important to you...
Shai Levy: Craft is indeed very important for me. I think that this is a pivotal factor in making products desirable and valuable. The fingerprints of the person who makes the bags, the fact that each bag is slightly different, that means a lot to me. The same goes for local manufacturing. I need be very close to where my products are made. I am quite a control freak this way. I cannot send drawings and wait for the sample to get back with a courier, I need to be there when the product is actually developed. Many design decisions are made on the production floor. I have to be there to feel the materials, see how they work together and what does it take to actually make them. Same goes for production - I am there on top of the craftsmen and women, checking each one of the products in person, to make sure that it meets the standards of Seventy Eight Percent.

Some people are put off by the fact that I make my bags in China. However they miss the fact that I live in Hong Kong which is two hours drive from the workshop. That's as local as it gets. Not to mention that the level of workmanship in China can be very high. As high as in Europe.

A closer look at the Gustav

SS: Each bag is hand made by up to three craftsmen and women that spend as much as fifty hours to assemble one bag. Can you talk us through some of the process involved in creating your accessories? What can you tell us about the workshop?
Shai Levy: The workshop itself is pretty simple. A hall with tools and equipment. It does not look like a renaissance-period library as it appears in some brand’s advertisements. It is the people that makes it tick. A mix of people with various skills: leather craftsmen, fabric seamstresses and more. I have been working with them for three and a half years now, during which they got to understand my style and expectations, and I also got to learn their abilities and strengths. They used to think that I am crazy and tough but now they are happy to see me.
Some of my bags are indeed very complicated to produce. It is really mind-blowing to see the bag come together in so many parts with so many processes involved. Lots of steps, which all have to be executed at the highest level.

One of the most interesting step is cutting the leather. Each skin is different and within the same skin there are lots of variations. The natural marks, the thickness, mosquito bites and scars. We use rather large pieces of leather and finding the right piece of leather for each bag is very challenging. We have to make sure that the marks work well with the silhouette and that the thickness is right. We also have to bear in mind that the leather we use is very expensive , so cutting it right is very important to reduce wastage. If you see several of our bags together could see that each of them is unique.

Another amazing step is making the internal three-dimensional pockets of the Back To Old School Collection. Each pocket is made of several pieces of fabric and a strip of leather. Every time I see a bag being made it strikes me how many steps there are and how much time it takes to assemble one single pocket, and each bag has three of these 3D pockets. I can keep on going for hours as there are so many steps and challenges in building our bags right. I plan to film it one day, when I have the time.

The Jurgen

SS: Now on to your latest collection, could you talk us through Harrison Fold and the inspiration behind the pieces?
Shai Levy: Harrison Fold was an interesting collection to design in several aspects. Firstly, it was a collaboration between myself and Harold Poon, a young talented designer who joined Seventy Eight Percent after graduating design school in Australia. Secondly, it had to meet high expectations following the success of the Back To Old School Collection but at the same time be different. The pressure was on!

The inspiration initially came from waterproof outdoor bags that have roll top closures (hence the FOLD), and was influenced by Indiana Jones' shoulder bag.

The Dirk

SS: Do you have a typical type of person in mind when designing and if so does this evolve with each season?
Shai Levy: The person I have in mind is pretty much like myself. Creative, professional, urban, international and alternative. My products are designed around my likings: I like objects that are functional. I like things that people can fix rather than throw away and replace. I like things that age well and tell a story. I like things that make me feel special and unique. I like to keep things as simple as possible and to make them well, from the best materials. There is not a single Seventy Eight Product that does not meet all of these characteristics.

The evolution is not seasonal but depends on my personal development and on the people who join Seventy Eight Percent. Harold, for an example, is pretty much a Seventy Eight Percent type of guy. He is 15 years younger than me and comes from a different background. You can sense it when you compare the Back To Old School Collection to the Harrison Fold. They share the same DNA but are evolutionary.

A closer look at the Jurgen.

SS: What bag did you carry with you today? What was inside it?
Shai Levy: I carry the same bag that I carry for almost two years (apart from testing new products) - the Schults. I love this bag. It is big as I always carry a lot of stuff with me. In it: 15" Macbook Pro with its charger, Moleskin notebook, Emile notepad, Lumix LX5 camera with its spare battery, SD card reader, USB memory stick, online banking pin generator, Monocle’s November issue, sunglasses, reading spectacles, chewing gum, Tylenol, lots of papers from my accountant, earphones, iPhone with its sync cable, wallet, keys, Magnifying glass (for my nerdy leather inspection), passport, business cards and an avocado and cheese sandwich.

The other side of Dirk

SS: Finally, how would you like to see the brand evolve over the coming seasons?
Shai Levy: Firstly, I want to see more shops stocking my bags. I get a lot of enquiries from people around the world that wants to see the products and I want to have shops where I can send them to. Secondly, I would like the brand to gain global recognition and to be associated with strong creativity and high product quality: I want people to know who we are and what we stand for. Thirdly, I would like to include more creative spirits in Seventy Eight Percent. I enjoy working with people and hope to have enough staff to have small corporate parties. I want to have a full time DJ working in the office, a DJ would probably have been our first employee if Elad was running the brand.

Seventy Eight Percent's Harrison Fold collection is now available to purchase from online and from Kapok, Lane Crawford and Cumulus.

Gifts for me, myself and I

Earlier this year I waxed lyrical about my retail crush on Hong Kong's institution of a specialty store, Lane Crawford. After a number of longing glances from across the ocean, this blossoming long distance affair took a surprising turn with the age of my new love coming to light. This season, Lane Crawford is remarkably one hundred and sixty years old. Founded in 1850 by Thomas Ash Lane and Ninian Crawford, it has evolved to become a leading luxury specialty store offering a wide selection of mouth watering brands. Celebrating its one hundred and sixtieth anniversary, Lane Crawford proudly launched Heritage 160 for AW10. To honour the rich history and unique past of the store, as well as its strong relationships with top brands, designers and talents from around the world, Heritage 160 featured a series of programmes and events throughout the season. The celebrations culminated last Thursday with with a ceremony and a launch event at its mind blowing flagship store at IFC mall. It was a celebration to remember and thank the many generations of families who have worked and shopped with Lane Crawford, and ultimately woven the fabric that has built 160 years of traditions and community in Hong Kong. Thankfully, I was invited out to join the celebrations.

The theme for the day was Play and play we most certainly did. The flagship space was transformed in to a dream like arcade park. Guests and celebrities alike all lined up to play favourite games, including ping pong, air hockey, car racing, pool and testing their skill at the claw machine. I tried my luck on the air hockey and ping pong tables. I came up short with a racket in my hand but Susie delivered the goods with her vicious puck bashing. Now, I rarely win anything. Having grown up losing pound after pound in the slot machines that preyed on the young and the bored of Margate it felt good to win and win big. My prize came in a special blue box...

That special blue box that so many crave.

Now, if I did win anything in my previous life the winnings would normally still leave me short on what I ploughed in to the machine. Here however my luck changed for the better. A pair of embroidery adorned Lanvin cufflinks were found inside. I'm undecided whether they are a pair of skulls or monkeys but either way, I love them dearly and thank Lane Crawford (included eagle eyed accessories buyer Marco Lau) greatly.

A closer look of the cufflinks inside.

Having raised our glasses and partied with this Hong Kong institution our appetite for gifts was undoubtedly whet. The following morning (with a pair of slightly sore heads) we returned to the IFC store to explore the space in its returned state. After admiring the brand packed menswear floor (highlights include Nigel Cabourn, Kolor, Junya Watanabe, AI and the Cambridge Satchel Company to name but a few) we headed to the shoe department. It was here that I fell head of hi top heel for a pair of Lanvin's. Top of my footwear lust list has always been a pair of Lanvin hi tops.

My latest shoe obsession.

Now, you might recall that when I hit the quarter of a century mark, Susie knew me all too well and bought me the best present ever. Fast forward a couple of years and Susie saw that my eyes had lit up by a wool and leather combination for AW10. Having had the fires of gifting ignited within by the Lane Crawford party, she opted to treat me to a pair of these flocked grey, navy and maroon weave hi tops. Amazing. An early Christmas gift. I have been spoiled rotten and it feels good. Let's take a closer look at this pair of pulse racing, texture rich trainers...

A texture rich close up.

And another. Oh, I'm in love.

Later that day, we ventured to another retail favourite of this bustling city, Kapok. This small but perfectly formed store is an arbiter of good taste. With each visit there is temptation everywhere within its four walls. After recently featuring the latest offering from local accessories label Seventy Eight Per Cent I could not resist taking a closer. This closer look then led to a purchase of the real highlights of the new Harrison Fold collection, the Gustav. Having been treated by Lane Crawford and then by Susie, it was only fitting for me to treat myself, right......right?

As Shai Levy conceded in our recent interview, Harrison Fold was an interesting collection to design in several aspects. Firstly, it was a collaboration between himself and Harold Poon, a young talented designer who joined Seventy Eight Percent after graduating design school in Australia. Secondly, it had to meet the high expectations following the success of the Back To Old School Collection but at the same time be different. The inspiration initially came from waterproof outdoor bags that have roll top closures (hence the Fold in the title), and was influenced by Indiana Jones' shoulder bag.

Gustav itself is a designer Messenger Bag, designed to carry your belongings in comfort and style. It is spacious and well organized with pockets to stash my everyday essentials. The bags are engineered to fulfill people’s practical needs and are built to last. The Japanese wax coated canvas and Italian vegetable tanned leather are designed to age gracefully (far more so than this blogger). It makes for a fine present for myself.

One utterly spoiled me. Gustav messenger by Seventy Eight Percent and hi tops from Lanvin worn with black trousers from Tim Soar and a crombie coat from ASOS Black. 

Happy birthday Lane Crawford and thank you for igniting the flames of this gifting frenzy. Now, having been spoiled, I better make a start on my Christmas shopping.